May 2026 has been one of the most concurrent and bustling event months in the city, but some experiences demand that you pause, return to your notes, and truly assimilate the gravity of what was in the glass. It always takes me more time to write about the events that impress me the most; I find I must sit with the technical details to honor the work of the stewards behind the wine. This was certainly the case for my recent side-by-side tasting with Guillaume Marko and Philippe Pascal.
Hosted at Eli’s Table (Eli Zabar) in New York, a setting that matched the elegance of the lineup, a couple of media professionals enjoyed a comprehensive technical tasting of the 2024 releases, balanced by “classic” cold-style 2021s and rare library gems dating back to 2013. During the tasting, we had the presence of Guillaume Marko, the technical winery lead and Philippe Pascal, the visionary owner of the historic Cistercian estate in Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines and the high-altitude Domaine Mont Bessay.
Eli’s Table in the uptown east neighborhood of Manhattan is quite a gem. I confess I had stopped by their caffe many times but never experienced the hospitality of their restaurant. They kindly and graciously accommodated my pescatarian restrictions, which proved to be a masterstroke for these mineral-driven wines.
During the tasting event they showcased the triumph of organic resilience. While four producers in Givry are now organic, Philippe led the charge as the first to do so in 2016.
I was impressed to see and learn how they are making use of gravity-fed cellars, whole-cluster vinification, and a refusal to compromise on organic standards despite the “nights of difficulty” brought by heavy rains and frost.
As a fan of the traditional vintages, I found the 2024s, to be a revelation. These are wines of tension and transparency, far removed from the solar-driven extraction of recent years.
I am a champion for Aligoté since we have been studying this grape for the longest time in Latinas Wine Club. Hence, it was great to start the tasting with this crisp varietal that can be still unknown for many.
The undeniable standout was Juliénas “En Bessay” 2024. Philippe described it as the “most Burgundian Beaujolais,” and the reasons are technical: it sits at a very high altitude on the best possible terroir. They have been rigorously replanting to manage the “old girls” (vines struggling to produce), and by applying Burgundian techniques—specifically meticulous whole-cluster management, to this high-elevation Gamay, they’ve created a wine with the verticality and elegance of a Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir.
The culinary highlight was pairing this Juliénas with a Salt-Crusted Wild Branzino. Following my “sauce rule” philosophy, the wine’s natural acidity and herbal spice acted as a perfect foil to the herb-infused olive oil and the flaky fish. It was a flawless demonstration of how traditional, high-acid reds can elevate delicate seafood when the kitchen understands the balance.
In an era of rising temperatures, the 2024s from Cellier aux Moines and Mont Bessay are a vibrant beacon of hope. Guillaume and Philippe are true stewards of the land, proving that while the juice finishes the fermentation, the tannins are the terroir. For those of us who value elegance over extraction, these bottles are essential. They speak of the earth rather than the sun, and for the traditionalist, that is the greatest triumph of all.
Martha Cisneros Paja is an Engineer, Cava Educator and WSET Level 2 certified, founder of Latinas Wine Club Inc. and author of Mexican Wines: A guide to Fall in Love with Wines of Mexico . Read more about one of the most hard-working Latinas in Wine here.
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