Join me as I deepen my knowledge of an exceptional Spanish Wine Producer, Raventós Codorníu maker of exceptional Cavas and Premium Wines.
During a warm fall afternoon in New York City, I visited the Spain Trade Commission in the iconic Chrysler Building to meet the Director of Winemaking for Raventos Codorníu, Diego Pinilla, for a very extensive tasting of their Cavas and still wines from Priorat, Rioja, and Napa. I have known them forever for their exceptional Cavas. Still, I was truly captivated by the elegance of the still wines produced across different regions of Spain and Napa, California, which showcased a remarkable balance of flavors and a refined finish.
Their pioneering spirit was evident in the techniques they employed in both the vineyard and the winery, setting new standards in the industry. Additionally, I greatly admired their commitment to sustainable practices, as they took significant steps to minimize their environmental impact while producing high-quality wines. They aim to express their soils across different regions, which will be a distinction seal from their portfolio. This dedication enhances the character of their wines and reflects a deep respect for the land.
Moreover, Diego Pinilla’s personality shined throughout our conversation and wine tasting. He is approachable, and the humility of his words shows his leadership capability: “Each winemaker knows better what he is doing; I only provide different eyes when we review or assess the job both in the vineyards and in the bottle“. He grasped what authentic leadership means and encouraged the team on their own leadership.
The world of wine owes Cava to Codorníu. Codorníu is one of Spain’s most historic and prominent wine producers, renowned for its role in creating Cava, the country’s most celebrated sparkling wine.
Founded in 1551, Codorníu has a rich legacy that spans generations. It showcases a commitment to traditional and innovative winemaking techniques. Today, Codorníu continues to set benchmarks in the industry, producing a diverse range of high-quality wines that reflect the unique soils of Catalonia.
Evolution is also a characteristic of the production, which are not only pioneers but trendsetters. It was excellent to hear from Diego Pinilla during our conversation that since 2021, they have continued producing and growing their high-premium range of Cavas. Hence, tasting high-premium Cavas left me incredibly satisfied. As a Cava Educator, I firmly believe that Cava can have their stand-out series of luxury in a bottle like nothing else in the market as the true Catalonian spirit surrounds their wine production. That Catalonian success that has been achieved excellence in arts, architecture, food, and, of course, it will also shine in Cava wine production. Perhaps, I was Catalonian in my other life, but I can’t deny how much I admire Catalonian culture. I invite you to be seduced by their ethics and hard work in pursuing excellence.
Codorníu has discovered a successful recipe for growing Cava grapes, which many other producers are adopting. Codorníu cultivates Chardonnay in the continental climate of the inner Costas del Segre, while in the Conca de Barberà region, they grow Pinot Noir. Additionally, in the Mediterranean climate, they focus on cultivating the indigenous grape varieties essential for producing Cava. On the other hand, they strive to have Cavas that showcase freshness despite some of their Cuvees going for 15 months to years of aging.
I have tasted Codorníu literally since 20 years ago. I first had Anna de Codorníu in Mexico, and I have been happy to continue tasting their Blanc de Blanc profiles through the years. Anna de Codorníu was the Blanc de Blancs served to my wedding guests. I joined the Bruno Colomer, Codorniu Winemaker in years past when they first unveiled Ars Collecta collection. I have also tasted their different other Cava blends, which always showcase freshness and have a distinctive producer seal. Hence, revisiting their Ars Collecta collection and new premium wines made my heart content.
Codorníu Ars Collecta Blanc de Blancs Reserva’s remarkable acidity and freshness are achieved through meticulous grape selection and expert winemaking.
This Cava is a tribute to the legacy of Josep Raventós, who pioneered Cava production one hundred fifty years ago. His vision perfectly encapsulates Codorníu’s heritage, present identity, and future aspirations. The 2015 vintage marks the first release of this particular Cava.
Josep Raventós Cava Gran Reserva 2015 is a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Macabeu, Xarel·lo, and Parellada. All the grapes uniquely provide character to this premium Cava.
The color is golden bright, and no hint of the skins of the Pinot Noir appears on the eyes, but it has that character of spices and red fruits on the palate. The Parellada grape contributes to minerality, especially as climate change leads to greater ripeness. It will be interesting to observe how this grape evolves with the changing Mediterranean climate.
Chardonnay provides structure and firmness, while careful winemaking ensures freshness. The result is a full-bodied, velvety Cava with great richness, elegance, and vibrancy. Macabeu and Xarel·lo mingle to create that distinctive Mediterranean flavor of Cava. Despite its long aging, it remains remarkably fresh and lively. It is a very elevated Cava for my taste in the good sense, where harmoniously, the many flavors provide many layers and yet is very refreshing without a trace of aftertaste. It is truly the best Gran Reserva Cava I have tasted.
Scala dei Wines produced a wide range of wines from the Priorat region. Some of the wines served as excellent introductions to Priorat. Based on its reputation for producing high-tannic wines with structure and black fruit notes, I had anticipated a different experience but was pleasantly surprised.
Scala dei wines are crafted in the Monsat Mountains, producing a limited quantity of their Priorat gems. Their Priorat expressions exude a remarkable elegance, showcasing the unique characteristics that arise from the diverse altitudes around 500 meters to 800 meters across the estate. Each sip unfolds layers of complexity, reflecting the soils and the meticulous care taken in the vineyards. It’s fascinating how the interplay of different elevations contributes to its overall balance and depth.
Although I had already tried Priorat wines, I loved getting to know Scala Dei with Diego immediately from its labels. You can see that they reflect the history that is so important because they have one of the oldest and historical vineyards in the region. Some of their vines have been cultivated for 50 years. They continue to be pioneers in every region in which they extend their group.
To start the wine tasting of this portfolio, we did it so with a White Wine Priorat, which was my first time trying a blend from the region. Massipa Scala Dei 2022 is a refreshing blend of Garnacha Blanca and Chenin Blanc sourced from a historic, Premier Cru-style vineyard once cultivated by Jesuit monks. This wine is aged 6-8 months in wood and further matured on its lees. It had a harmonious balance of freshness and complexity.
Scala Dei Prior is an excellent introduction to the Priorat region, offering a taste of its characteristic intensity but with a more approachable style. This red wine, aged for one year in oak barrels, presents a captivating “licorice wood” character, hinting at the subtle oak influence and anise notes that complement the fruit. Unlike some of the bolder Priorat wines, Scala Dei Prior has “friendly tannins”—smooth and well-integrated, making it enjoyable to drink now. This nuanced expression showcases the elegance and complexity of Priorat without overwhelming the palate, making it a perfect starting point for exploring the region’s unique terroir.
Scala Dei Cartoixa is a complex and powerful expression of Cariñena. This wine showcases the grape’s full potential with its expressive character, and firm tannins derived naturally from the fruit. Traditional techniques like open-tank racking contribute to its development, while balsamic notes add complexity to its aromatic profile. With its robust structure, Scala Dei Cartoixa promises further aging potential and rewards those who appreciate the bolder side of Cariñena.
Scala Dei Heretxe is a unique, easy-drinking Cariñena from Priorat. This limited-production wine (2000-3000 bottles) showcases an atypical expression of the region, emphasizing elegance over the typical powerful style. Its origins are deeply rooted in the area, offering a fresh perspective on Priorat’s terroir and the versatility of the Cariñena grape.
Scala dei Masdeu is a unique expression of 100% Garnacha. Grapes are sourced from a high-elevation vineyard in Montsant, outside the region’s typical limestone-rich soils. This 2020 vintage, limited to 2000 bottles, was aged in a wooden foudre and exhibits enticing violet notes. Meticulous vineyard management and a focus on terroir expression have resulted in an elegant, lighter-bodied wine that promises a captivating drinking experience.
Scala dei St. Antoni, a 100% Garnacha, reveals a captivating expression of the varietal. Crafted in 2020 and nurtured in the gentle embrace of a wooden foudre, this wine whispers tales of vibrant violets on the nose. A limited production of 2000 bottles hints at an intimate connection between vine and vintner, promising a unique experience with each sip.
In Spanish winemaking, “Reserva” indicates a wine that has undergone extended aging before release. This typically means a minimum of three years of age for red wines, with at least one year in oak barrels, while white and rosé reservas require at least two years, including six months in oak. The Reserva designation signifies higher quality and complexity, as these wines develop richer flavors and aromas over time. Each Spanish wine region may have specific regulations regarding reservas, making it a mark of craftsmanship and care in winemaking.
Viña Pomal, located in Rioja, is one of the oldest wineries in the region, with a history spanning 120 years. They are pioneers of the first legal registration in Rioja. Their Reservas are produced exclusively in the best years.
The 2015 vintage was warmer, resulting in smoother tannins, pleasant spices, red fruit, and hints of coconut. The Tempranillo grapes from Ciclo Corto, particularly from the 2015 vintage, benefit from cooler climates. On the other hand, Graziano grapes tend to ripen less but yield enhanced concentration and acidity. Graziano grapes are often used in blends to improve the overall weight of the wine.
This has been the year of making big wine statements. Hence, in 2024, I admit I moved away from tasting the bold red wines of Napa Valley. I am currently not accepting any more samples of wines from the region, so I shared that with Diego Pinilla when we started trying Artesa. However, as a savvy sommelier, I have to keep my door open for the wines of the world, and I had to eat my own words when I tried Artesa. The Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon Elevation Block-92 2021 from Carneros is a bold and elegant red wine featuring notes of vanilla alongside refreshing characteristics. Its limited development notes contribute to a fresh and lively taste. Read more about Artesa Winery here.
Exploring Raventós Codorníu and its exceptional wines has deepened my appreciation for the artistry and dedication that goes into each bottle of their wines. From the vibrant Cavas that capture the essence of Catalonia to the elegant still wines from various esteemed regions, the commitment to quality and sustainability is evident. Diego Pinilla’s passion and vision for winemaking resonate throughout the portfolio, making each sip a celebration of this historic producer’s rich heritage and innovative spirit. Cheers to the wine journey ahead and to savoring these fantastic creations!
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