I invite you to meet the fast-thinking, data, sustainable, and fair trade-driven winemaker who embraces science but kindness towards the vineyard in every step: Juan Pablo Murgia from Bodega Argento.
I first encountered Juan Pablo’s wines when I enjoyed tasting Otronia 45 Rugientes corte de Blancas. Such tasting happened at the Sip of the South event hosted by Wine Enthusiast. During the masterclass, Jesica Vargas introduced us to Otronia, by winemaker Juan Pablo Murgia, highlightning his efforts Patagonia. I loved the expression, which provided a unique, crisp, and balanced taste, making it a truly revolutionary wine for Argentine.
Hence, when I learned I had the opportunity to interview in a one-on-one with him, I was happy to do so. Therefore, on a crisp day in November in New York, I joined him at the Argentina Consulate to taste a set of Malbecs (and a Cabernet Franc) from Bodega Argento. All of them have a profile that stands out for an elegant balance of the fruit and tannins produced only in a very special soil or what we are calling “Cru” or a “Top Soil” on Argentina.
Juan Pablo Murgia was named Best Young Winemaker 2021 by Tim Atkin Argentina Special Report 2021, and recently (2023), he was nominated as Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. Murgia has dedicated his entire career to ensuring organic farming and sustainable viticulture is the standard. Just turning 40, he is the technical director of Grupo Avinea–the largest producer of organic wine in Argentina–and manages five wineries, focusing on Bodega Argento and the southernmost winery on the planet, Otronia.
Born and raised in Mendoza, his grandfather was a viticulturist and winery owner. He introduced Juan Pablo to the vineyards during childhood, sharing time in the estate and winery that inspired him to work in the industry.
Juan Pablo has cemented his position in the wine community as an innovator. He plays an instrumental role in bringing Argentine wines to a broader global audience.
Juan Pablo doesn’t emphasize his wines or vineyards being organic, stating that “being organic is the standard; there was no alternate option in my mind. It just is the way to be.” Even though organic and sustainable certifications seem standard for Juan Pablo, he takes it further by securing ‘Fair Trade certifications for Bodega Argento. This accomplishment makes the winery the official ambassador for Fair Trade in Argentina, and Argento is one of the only wineries involved at this level.
Since their inception, two fundamental principles have guided Argento and Otronia: agroecology and focus on the soils. Agroecology is the practice of viticulture that respects the ecosystem. With focus on soils it enhances the profile of the wines through their natural strengths. This philosophy merges with the science and detailed precision viticulture applied to each vineyard under partialization and micro-terroir, respecting each piece of soil’s identity, its heterogeneity, diversity, and impact on each small vineyard area. While conversing with Juan Pablo at the Argentinean Consulate, I was struck by his fluency in technical expertise. He explained how it is essential to combine agroecology and soil focus with a clear understanding of the scientific method, as well as artistic winemaking and appreciation of nature.
Juan Pablo’s wines result from his constant search for the best expression of organic vineyards. He carefully selects micro terroirs within the vineyards and makes minimal interventions in winemaking to achieve a pure style. This style not only represents the traditions of Argentine winemaking but also showcases the future of winemaking in the country. Juan Pablo introduced the first-ever White Malbec, made with organic grapes and certified Fairtrade, to the US. He also experiments with new winemaking techniques that can fluctuate with the weather. Juan Pablo is always striving to provide better wine experiences for everyone who enjoys or has a hand in his wines.
*There is no such thing as a Malbec Grand Crus. But if there were, these could be an example of a Grand Cru Malbec.
Juan Pablo’s wines have gained global recognition. Even though he can attribute his success to his craftsmanship, attention to data and nature, and the support of Grupo Argea, who have provided the most critical piece: the soils.
Bodega Argeo is located in Cruz de Piedra, Maipu, Mendoza, at the foothills of the Andes mountain range. Since 2012 Argento produce organic and sustainable wines that showcase the best of the region. The vineyards are located in Mendoza and the Uco Valley. From selecting the finest micro terroirs to using minimal intervention techniques, the wines are created in a classic, organic style that truly reflects the essence of the vineyard.
During my encounter with Juan Pablo, we tasted a different range of Malbec from Finca Agrelo and Finca Altamira. Juan Pablo mentioned, “These wines might be Malbec Grand Cru if there were such in Mendoza.”
Of course, I was most impressed by their elegant palate right at the first sip of premium Malbec. However, I was most astonished by the last sip of the tasting, a Single Block Malbec.
We had a great start to our wine tasting with two types of Malbec. The first one was Argento Single Vineyard Finca Agrelo Malbec 2021. It had an intense red color with violet tones. It had many different aromas, such as red fruit, plum, spices, and violets. The finish was velvety, almost excellent, with smooth tannins. The second one was Argento Single Vineyard Finca Altamira Malbec 2021. It also had an intense red color and smelled fresh and vibrant, with aromas of red fruits, flowers, and herbs. It had a great mid-palate and was juicy with a complex finish.
We pause the Malbec tasting to get into one of my favorite grapes flourishing in Argentina: Cabernet Franc. I was impressed by the Argento Single Vineyard Finca Agrelo Cabernet Franc 2021. It had an intense red color and a fresh, full-bodied taste with exceptional aromas. The palate was very aromatic, with hints of raspberries and herbs, robust tannins, and a mid-palate with good weight. It had a long and vibrant finish.
Last but not least, the cherry on top. Argento’s Single Block Malbec 2021 Finca Altamira is a pure and organic expression of the Altamira terroir. It is crafted with minimal intervention, allowing the unique micro-terroirs within the vineyard to shine through. The wine boasts an intense purple-red color. Aromas of black cherry and violet flowers, and a juicy and vibrant finish with a good structure.
After I met with Juan Pablo, I couldn’t stop thinking about Jancis Robinson’s Tasting Pleasure quote.
“But there are some winemakers who are driven by the sheer magic of being so in tune with their plot of land that they can coax the best wine possible out of it.”
Jancis Robinson, Tasting Pleasure.
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
