June 2024 marked the return of Michel Chapoutier from M Chapoutier back to New York City.
Michel Chapoutier is the lead of M Chapoutier, a legendary producer from the Rhône Valley whom I have been following for years. His bravery and unique vision to go beyond the classical laws of the Rhône Valley have drawn me to him. One might think that leading his family winery would make him more attached to the rules, but on the contrary, his innovative spirit shines through in every wine produced under his name.
Dorothy Gaither, a steemed wine writer, who I admired as well, has described it best: Michel Chapoutier took over the business from his father Max in 1990 at the age of 26, when he told his grandfather he wanted to stay in the business but that to do so, he would have to control the winery, and thus, effectively, kick his dad out of it. The Chapoutier family can trace its history in the Rhône region back to 1808, but it was in 1879 that Polydor Chapoutier bought his first vineyards and started the actual business.
I am glad that I discovered this producer in an unattempted and the most authentic way that could have happened. It was as if I was looking for a producer to follow and fall in love with, which is this case.
Five years ago, I stumbled upon M Chapoutier Belleruche, the cornerstone of this remarkable portfolio, in Cape Cod. A Côtes du Rhône at a fantastic price and value caught my eye in a Target. My advice, as always, is to follow the producer, and that’s how I discovered the many lines from this multigenerational producer led by the incredible Michel Chapoutier. He has been a force of nature, breaking barriers and even creating braille labels. His innovation and constant push to exceed his limits inspire me. I take great pleasure in his wines and extensive portfolio from New York to Portugal and Australia.
Naturally, I was very excited when I heard he was visiting New York City. I have written about many of Chapoutier’s wines for a year or so, and meeting him was exciting. I enjoyed discussing with him the struggles that sommeliers face and how much I want to visit the Ermitage. Michel shared with me his project in France to support the careers of sommeliers, as he considers their labor so important to the world of wine and culinary arts in general.
M Chapoutier aims to produce wines that are food-friendly and excel at emancipating the flavors of every course, and I think it excels at it. Hence, for his return to New York City, his lunch and the pairings were decadent at the two Michelin-rated restaurant Gabriel Kreuthuer. Gabriel Kreuther is an acclaimed chef and restaurateur known for his innovative and creative approach to French cuisine. He has received numerous accolades and awards for his culinary expertise and has gained recognition for his eponymous restaurant in New York City. Kreuther’s commitment to excellence and his ability to blend traditional and contemporary influences have established him as a prominent figure in the culinary world.
Enjoying both M Chapoutier wines and Gabriel Kreuther was more than a treat. It was a culinary experience in all the sense of the words. The decadent pairings were very well thought out and accompanied by wines that I haven’t had before from M Chapoutier from his premium line, and I continue to be amazed at every sip.
The wines that we enjoyed during the event were:
Some particularities about the wines were that almost all of them were from single vineyards. Michael is returning to the tradition of showcasing the terroir where the grapes thrive, and by doing so, he is paying particular attention to single-varietal wines.
My favorite was 2008 La Mordorée Côte Rotie, which, despite its 16 years of aging, was elegant, fruit-balanced, and fresh. It was paired with a 36-month-aged comté (cheese) and, of course, chocolate.
When I left the event, I told Michel to see you the next time, but this time in the Ermitage, a renowned wine region in the Rhône Valley known for its exceptional wines and breathtaking vineyards. And there I am, leaving the words to catch up with my reality in the next couple of years!
Have you tried any M Chapoutier wines? I’d love to hear about your experiences and thoughts!
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