As a Latina wine educator based in New York City, October’s calendar is always a flurry of tastings and events. The sheer volume demands selectivity. This makes my choice to attend the Ventisquero Wine Estates Luncheon, hosted by Wine Enthusiast at the iconic Gramercy Tavern, a deliberate and rewarding one. This intimate gathering offered more than just a superb meal; it was a deep dive into the philosophy and dedication of one of Chile’s most ambitious wineries.
The event, which saw Chief Winemaker Felipe Tosso share the stage with Jesica Vargas, Wine Enthusiast’s esteemed Reviewer for Latin America & Africa, was a masterclass in challenging conventional winemaking boundaries. The name Ventisquero, which means “glaciers,” perfectly encapsulates their approach: working in extreme, often cold, environments to craft wines of tension and purity.
Ventisquero’s portfolio is a testament to the diverse and often overlooked potential of Chilean soil. The tasting journey took us from the arid, salty climes of the Atacama Valley to the windswept, cold edges of Patagonia—areas considered impossible for viticulture just a decade ago.
One of the most striking pairs of the afternoon showcased this contrast: the Tara Chardonnay 2022 from Atacama and the Kosten Chardonnay 2023 from Patagonia.
The Tara Chardonnay 2022 is a marvel of low-intervention winemaking. Sourced near the world’s driest desert, this wine expresses a savory minerality and tension that I adore. The tasting notes highlighted sweet aromas of grapefruit and pear, balanced by refreshing acidity. It was layered with white peach, melon, lime, quince, and delightful hints of salt. This low-sulfur, almost Natural Wine approach results in a vibrant, fresh profile. This is a true reflection of the challenging, dry coastal vineyards where the vines thrive better than olive trees.
In contrast, the Kosten Chardonnay 2023 from Patagonia, an area where the vines must endure “all the weather in a day,” presented a different kind of intensity. This region, a mere 100 miles from the ocean, lends the wine a rounder, more chalky structure. Felipe Tosso’s work in these “bonsai vineyards” proves that extreme conditions, while tough, yield wines of striking beauty.
While Ventisquero is well-known for its work with Syrah and Carmenère in the Apalta Valley, my biggest personal revelation was their Pinot Noir range. The focus on exploring the Americas provides winemakers like Tosso more freedom than is often found in older wine regions. This liberty is brilliantly expressed in their Pinots.
We compared the Kosten Pinot Noir 2023 (Patagonia) with the Tara Pinot Noir 2022 (Atacama Valley).
The Kosten Pinot Noir from Patagonia, with its isolated, pollution-free terroir, displayed a more structured, slightly “wild” character with less salinity and more roundness. It’s a compelling example of how a cold, remote environment can shape the grape.
However, the Tara Pinot Noir from Atacama was my favorite. This wine was a burst of energy: medium-bodied, vibrant, and bursting with minerality and a definitive saltiness. Its wild aromas and tension delivered pure cranberry, raspberry, and plum flavors. There was also a subtle meaty note that perfectly captured the essence of its extreme desert birthplace.
The tasting concluded with Ventisquero’s flagship reds from the warmer, more established Apalta Valley, showcasing their commitment to Syrah and Carmenère.
The Vertice Cosecha Histórica 2010, a wine from the “earthquake year,” offered gripping tannins and a fruit-forward style. It provided a fascinating benchmark against the current vintage.
The Vertice Carménère – Syrah 2021 blend (51% Carménère, 49% Syrah) highlighted a modern, more restrained approach to oak. This maintained the team’s signature love for balanced acidity. This wine showed great structure with notes of cherries, spices, and chocolate. It included the Carménère’s signature, balanced green character.
Finally, the Pangea Syrah 2018 was a profound statement. Described by the winemaker as a personal favorite from a cooler vintage, this lively and elegant Syrah delivered complex aromas. It included wild raspberries, blueberries, and thyme, concluding with savory herbal hints. Tosso credits legendary Australian winemaker John Duval as a significant influence. This guidance directed their style toward elegance and terroir expression.
For Felipe Tosso, winemaking is not just a job, it’s a passion, a way of living that prioritizes taking care of the soils (terroir). This dedication was evident in every glass. It confirmed that Ventisquero is charting an exciting, adventurous future for Chilean wine. Learn more about Ventisquero at https://www.ventisquero.com
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