Have you heard of Salta? It’s a region in Argentina where Bodega Colomé, a winery that produces excellent Malbec, is located. Unlike the famous area of Mendoza, Salta is a less-known region located northwest of Argentina. Calchaquí Valley is the home of Bodega Colomé, which is over 6500 ft above sea level. Can you imagine the panoramic views? The estate vineyards are sustainable and nowadays it includes a modern winery, boutique hotel, and James Turrell Museum, which Turrell himself designed.
I became familiar with Bodega Colomé’s not to long ago when I tried El Arenal Malbec Single Vineyard. It was one of the first Single Vineyards Malbecs that I have ever tried. Besides, I learned about their beginnings, how they began producing Malbec from High Altitude Vineyards, their focus on sustainable farming, and how they created many different styles of Malbec. Let me share with you the inspiring story of the hidden gem of Salta, Argentina.
Colomé is an estate founded over 190 years ago in Salta, Argentina. It has a rich history spans several generations of visionary owners who have contributed to its legacy in various ways. One of the most notable was Doña Ascensión Isasmendi, who inherited the estate in the mid-1800s. She was a true pioneer in the world of winemaking, with the foresight to plant Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines from France.
What makes Colomé unique is that it is located in a remote region isolated from the rest of the world then and still very much so now. Despite this, the historic pre-phylloxera vineyards of Colomé have stood the test of time, producing some of the world’s finest wines for over a century.
In 2001, the property was purchased by the visionary owner Donald Hess, who recognized the potential of the estate and its vineyards. He has continued preserving its legacy while bringing new ideas and innovations to winemaking.
Donald Hess was a Swiss winemaker and art collector known in Napa Valley for infusing wine with art. But his vision expanded beyond Switzerland and Napa, an incursion into one of the most hidden territories of Argentina at the time he purchased the property of Bodegas Colomé.
A couple moved to a village in northwest Argentina to rehabilitate the vineyards of Bodega Colomé, a minor winery over 150 years old, situated high up in the Salta mountains. They farmed the vineyard biodynamically, built a modern winery, and expanded with three additional high-altitude vineyard acquisitions, including one at 10,200 feet. They also founded the James Turrell Museum near the winery, which showcases nine of Terrell’s immersive light installations.
He was known for his energetic temperament according to an interview that Dave Guffy, the winemaker at Hess since 1999. gave to the Sa Francisco Chronicle. “He was one of those people that has infectious energy; you just wanted to be in the same room that he was. He was incredibly successful but also incredibly humble and down to earth and very easy to be around.”
Today, Colomé remains a premier winery renowned for its exceptional wines and rich history. It has been named one of the Top 100 wineries in the world and is led by the second-generation Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar.
Bodegas Colomé has a rich history of biodynamic farming that dates back to the 1990s when Mr. Hess was involved in Colomé. This pioneering spirit of viticulture and winemaking has continued under their stewardship, and in 2007, they planted the highest altitude fine wine vinifera vineyard in the world – Altura Máxima. This vineyard is located at an altitude of 10,200 feet above sea level.
The winery grows grapes in four vineyards at different altitudes, ranging from 5,740 to 10,200 feet above sea level. The extreme microclimate at these altitudes requires expertise and patience. Dramatic diurnal temperature swings facilitate bright acidity, and the intense sun exposure encourages thicker, darker grape skins, producing unique, aromatic wines with concentrated colors and flavors that also exhibit a natural freshness. Time is the other critical ingredient in making Colomé wines.
Colomé’s winemaker, Thibaut Delmotte, and his team take their time caring for the four vineyards. They use organic and biodynamic practices, giving the fruit time to ripen and mature in its natural environment. This process supports the mystic energy that combines in the wines to reflect Salta’s splendor.
Torrontés, Argentina’s flagship native white grape, is the highest expression in this region of Salta. Bodega Colomé Torrontes grows and thrives at the La Brava vineyard estate at 5575 feet which is optimal for this variety, and has a captivating aromatic profile. Cold fermented in stainless steel, this vintage has floral notes of roses, grapefruit, lychee, and a fresh, elegant finish.
This Malbec blend has grapes from four estate vineyards, each lending a unique quality. The Colomé vineyard (60%) provides complexity and weight, while the El Arenal vineyard (25%) gives elegance and freshness. La Brava adds intense ripe fruit, and the Altura Máxima (10%) vineyard contributes fine-grain tannins. The result is a beautifully balanced wine with aromas of blackberries and red fruit, ripe black fruit, spiced oak notes, and hints of pepper.
Auténtico is a Malbec wine from the Colomé estate vineyard, located at an altitude of 7545ft, and has the oldest continuously producing vines in Argentina. This vineyard was first planted in 1831 and is on its rootstock, not grafted. The winemaker believes the natural expression of the soil is in this wine. This vintage has an intense color and is full of blackberry, fig, cassis, and clove aromas with elegant spice and mineral notes. The palate is robust with concentrated, ripe, round tannins.
This creates a very authentic representation of the Malbec varietal. The wine is a tribute to the pioneers who planted the vineyards and opened the winery in 1831. The vineyards at Bodega Colomé have used sustainable farming practices to achieve the authentic expression of the terroir. Autentico grapes come from the best vineyard located at 2300 meters. The production of “Auténtico” is in the old winemaking style using ancient techniques such as pigeage (punch down) to retain the freshness and purity of fruit.
I couldn’t help but compare the wine I had recently with El Arenal Malbec, which I tried a few years ago. However, they are from different vineyards with varying altitudes and terroir, and the winemaking process is entirely different.
First, El Arenal is at an extreme 8530 feet above sea level. Second, this extreme altitude Single Vineyard wine is a tribute to all who dare to take the adventurous path and do what has never been done before. Actually, el Arenal, was Donald and Ursula Hess first vineyard in Salta. El Arenal is at an incredible 2600 meters above sea level in the Upper Calchaqui Valley. Last but not least, sustainably farmed grapes and spending 12 months in oak barrels El Arenal produce an incredibly sophisticated tannin structure and result in a supreme balance of fruit, freshness, power, complexity, and elegance that only this extreme altitude has to offer. El Arenal Single Vineyard is the culmination of the dedication, patience, and untamable spirit of innovation of Bodega Colomé.
If you haven’t already, let’s give Malbec another chance. Bodegas Colomé offers a variety of styles to explore, each with its unique character. Take the time to try them all and discover which one speaks to you the most. Who knows, you might find your new go-to wine for those special moments in life.
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