The first whiff of mulled wine brings out so many memories. That intoxicating perfume of cinnamon, cloves, and warm citrus is more than just a scent; it’s a sensory journey that spans two millennia. As a wine writer with roots deeply entwined in the vibrant traditions of Latin America, I find a profound connection in this winter warmer. My grandma didn’t just make a drink; she crafted Ponche con Piquete, a rich and fruity elixir. It serves as a living bridge between the Old World’s spiced wines and the New World’s bounty.
The global history of mulled wines is a captivating tale of trade, conquest, and adaptation. To truly understand its essence, we must first look back to its origins. Then, we follow its spice-laden path as it adapts to every corner of the world, culminating in the luscious, fruit-forward versions we cherish in our own hemisphere.
The story of warm, spiced wine, the original mulled wine, begins not at a frosty German Weihnachtsmarkt, but in the sun-drenched feasts of Ancient Rome. Around 20 AD, the Romans crafted a concoction known as Conditum Paradoxum (meaning “wonderful spiced wine”). This wasn’t a humble fireside beverage; it was a testament to Roman luxury and engineering. To make it, wine was boiled with honey, then fortified with exotic spices like pepper, bay leaf, and saffron. The recipe for this drink is famously documented in the 5th-century Roman cookbook De re coquinaria by Apicius, where it is often the very first recipe listed.
As the Roman legions marched and conquered, they brought their viticulture and their recipes, including this spiced, heated wine. They believed the drink fortified the body against the harsh European winters and, perhaps more practically, the strong spices helped to preserve and mask the taste of inferior or aged wine. This pragmatic beginning cemented the tradition. Wine, heated and infused, transforms winter’s hardship into an occasion for celebration.
By the Middle Ages, the tradition had evolved. Throughout Europe, spiced wine, often strained through a conical cloth filter bag called a manicum Hippocraticum (a device named after the Greek physician Hippocrates), was known as Hippocras (3.1, 3.4). This was the darling of aristocratic tables and medieval feasts across England and France. Recipes found in 14th-century English cookbooks like The Forme of Cury called for expensive imported ingredients. These included cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and mace, mixed with sugar or honey, and often a full-bodied red Claret.
The popularity of these spiced wines exploded thanks to the growing spice trade. This made the once-rare ingredients more accessible. The German version, Glühwein (glow wine), can be traced back to a documented spiced wine tankard from a German nobleman, Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen, around 1420. By the late 19th century, Glühwein had become firmly associated with traditional Christmas markets.
The European tradition is rich with its own local flavors and names, each reflecting the character of its country. These regional mulled wine interpretations demonstrate a beautiful, universal need for a warming, communal beverage when the temperatures drop.
The ultimate adaptation of the mulled wine tradition for me, however, lies in the heart of Latin America, particularly in Mexico. Here, it transforms into the spectacular Ponche Navideño, or Ponche con Piquete (punch with a “sting” or “kick” of alcohol). This is the recipe you’ve shared, and it speaks volumes about our heritage.
The concept of the punch was brought by Spanish missionaries to the New World, adapting Old World traditions. However, the Mexican Ponche is a profound cultural reinvention. It retains the Old World’s warming spices like cinnamon and cloves. However, it marries them with a symphony of native and local fruits, creating a rich, complex fruit punch.
My grandma’s recipe of Ponche Navideño, with its inclusion of tamarind pods, piloncillo for an unrefined, earthy sweetness, and indigenous fruits like tejocotes (Mexican hawthorn), guavas, and sugarcane sticks, is a vibrant tapestry of flavor. The tradition of serving the Ponche during Las Posadas, firmly establishes its role as a festive and communal staple.
What are The Posadas? The nineday celebration from December 16th to the 24th that reenacts Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter
The genius of our tradition is the piquete. Piquete stands for “bite” in spanish and is a modism to reffer to the alcohol or destilate. This is the final, personal touch of brandy or tequila added to each mug. It makes the Ponche con Piquete not just a holiday drink, but a deeply personal one. This makes it a welcoming gesture that respects each drinker’s desire for warmth and potency.
For those who wish to experience the depth of this Latin-inspired mulled wine tradition, here are the directions, infused with the spirit of my grandma:
This Mulled Wine Ponche is an inheritance. It is a flavorful narrative that reminds us how a single tradition, born in Roman times, can travel the world. Moreover, it can absorb local fruits and spirits, becoming a timeless centerpiece for celebration.
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