The world of wine is at its best when we strip away the rigid tasting grids and replace them with shared stories and full glasses. As a wine writer who frequently tastes side-by-side with producers, I find the most compelling stories emerge when we examine the human element behind the bottle. Recently, I stepped into an intimate gathering in Manhattan that perfectly captured this spirit. It embodied a beautiful philosophy known as Beaujonomie. This regional movement celebrates the joyful, communal culture of Beaujolais. Further, it proves that high-acidity, expressive Gamay wines belong at the center of the gastronomic table.
According to the Official Website of Beaujolais Wines, Beaujonomie is the spirit of sharing, the love of food and the passion for expressive Beaujolais wines bring life to beautiful get-togethers not only at the end of the harvest but all year round.
This was not my first time enjoying a Beaujonomie experience but it was my first time doing it indoors. The event took place at the rustic and elegant Blackbarn restaurant Nomad in Midtown Manhattan was the perfect spot to do it so. Local winemakers traveled directly from France to join NYC-based wine educators and writers for a collaborative, side-by-side tasting.
The immersive, multi course pairing lunch showcasing the terroir, incredible versatility, and sustainable viticulture of premium Beaujolais Crus. By serving flowing, lightly chilled red wines alongside meticulously crafted plates, the organizers demonstrated how the region’s communal spirit seamlessly bridges traditional winemaking with modern, urban dining.
There were many wines that we enjoyed during the experience but only two made me stop. I thoroughly enjoyed two distinct expressions of the 2023 vintage. We evaluated how varied vinification and soil matrices can draw completely different structural profiles from the same 100% Gamay grape.
The first wine of the seated experience that we enjoyed was Mommessin Grandes Mises Saint-Amour 2023. I have long loved the portfolio of this iconic producer. Hence, it was a joy to taste this bottling while discussing the work of his talented young winemaker, Florent Georger. Sourced from Saint-Amour (the northernmost Cru known historically as the wine of poets and lovers) this bottle reflects a fascinating, dual-faced terroir of juxtaposed limestone and granitic faults. The vines are planted on sandy, old pebbly soils, pruned en gobelet, and sustainably farmed. Using a “Burgundy-style” vinification, whole bunches are gravity-fed into concrete vats for a 12- to 15-day maceration featuring cap-punching and over-pumping. This is then followed by aging on fine lees.
Tasting Notes: On the nose, this elegant Cru opens with aromas of ripe black fruit, deep cherry, and delicate iris. The palate is complex and spicy, showcasing an ample structure, silky tannins, and a fine, long finish.
This wine represents the epitome of a vin vivant (living wine). Sourced from an very high elevation estate vineyard sitting at 1,550 feet on a steep 45% southeast slope, these 70+ year-old “Selection Massale” head-pruned vines struggle in barren, low-fertility pink granite. The estate incorporates strict organic and biodynamic practices, dry farming, and interplanted clover to naturally enhance the soil biome. The 2023 harvest yielded a minuscule 1 ton per acre, resulting in a tiny, 92-case production. In the cellar, natural handling rules. 70% de-stemmed grapes are fermented with native yeasts, and the juice is gravity-fed into inert glass spheres. Zero oak or manipulation ensures pure terroir expression. Furthermore, the estate utilizes lightweight and recycled glass, natural corks, and completely rejects toxic plastic wax or aluminum caps.
Tasting Notes: Intensely aromatic and deep ruby-red, this velvety, high-toned Gamay reveals a nervy, vibrant mid-palate. It displays elegant peppery notes and a structural finesse heavily reminiscent of a fine Pinot Noir.
The absolute highlight of the afternoon was discovering just how these vibrant, high-acidity reds perform alongside modern vegetarian gastronomy. Personally, I believe the vegetarian selections from Blackbarn Restaurant stole the show.
The first course featured a luxurious Wild Mushroom Toast topped with robiola, taleggio, parmesan, and fresh watercress. The earthy, savory qualities of the wild mushrooms paired flawlessly with the deep cherry and spicy iris notes of the Mommessin Saint-Amour. For the main course, the Stuffed Zucchini—served on a rich bed of white bean puree, Mediterranean vegetables, and a bright tomato coulis—proved to be an inspired match for the Domaine Jonathan Pey Fleurie. Furthermore, the wine’s nervy backbone, peppery undertones, and slight chill sliced through the creaminess of the puree. At the same time, it echoed the natural acidity of the tomato coulis, making for a spectacular culinary synergy.
The Manhattan Beaujonomie lunch demonstrated that the true magic of wine lies in connection. By sitting side-by-side with local winemakers, we tasted more than just excellent 2023 Crus. In fact, we experienced a culture of hospitality that honors both the soil and the table. Moreover, from the structured elegance of Mommessin’s Saint-Amour to the low-intervention, high-altitude purity of Jonathan Pey’s Fleurie, these expressive Gamay bottles prove that Beaujolais is a world-class, food loving region meant to be shared generously.
Martha Cisneros Paja is an Engineer, Cava Educator and WSET Level 2 certified, founder of Latinas Wine Club Inc. and author of Mexican Wines: A guide to Fall in Love with Wines of Mexico . Read more about one of the most hard-working Latinas in Wine here.
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